May 19, 2014
I’m going to Jackson
Google showed two ways to get from the Columbia River Gorge to Jackson Wyoming. The first, suggested that I take 84 all the way through Oregon and get off at Twin Falls to head over the pass in to Wyoming. The other, route, had me go down through Madras and then cut through central and eastern Oregon, eventually crossing in to Idaho near Ontario. This route added a few hours of total travel but saved countless tedious hours slogging with trucks at 55 MPH in a 75 MPG zone. I was in no rush and opted for the long route. Leaving on a Monday morning, I took the familiar route over Mt Hood and dropped in to Central Oregon. The April weathered oscillated between mid winter and spring as I head east. Over the passes, the occasional rain showers turned to snow, giving the feeling that the seasons were changing from winter to spring every half an hour so.
The days were getting longer, with sunrise happening shortly after 5 and setting around 7:30, traipsing around mountains late in the afternoon felt out of season. These photos are from 10 days spent chasing snow and hot springs during the last half of April.
Following Alex Yoder’s camper into National Forest for a night of camping.
Lucy, Alex’s constant companion.
Kale waking up in Eastern Oregon.
Warming up at a hot springs.
A view west from Jackson Hole.
Letting the flames die down to start cooking on a cow pie fire.
Lucy Guarding my snowshoes.
The start of mud season in Idaho.
A meet up of fellow travelers in the Jackson Hole parking lot.
The Tetons at sunset.
Hunkered down waiting for the storm to pass.
Sleeping under the stars.
This marks the end of my third winter living in a camper, I’m ready to dry out and enjoy the longer days.
Here are some more links,
Square State (Tumblr).
Jackson (Johnny Cash).
February 27, 2014
A fall of high pressure systems and the least activity that NOAA has ever recorded in the Pacific finally subsided and the North Pacific came to life in early January. I packed up my boards, left the Columbia River Gorge and headed south along the east side of the Cascades. I aimed for Santa Barbara, an area I’ve become fond of during the last two and half years of roaming up and down the coast. Setting the cruise control at 55, I arrived two days before the first of 5 swells was scheduled to arrive.
For next twenty days, I bounced around the area from Ventura to Goleta. I surfed until my wetsuits gave me rashes in my armpits and behind the knees. Like so many other surfers on the West Coast, I had a thirst to fill. I started the swell with three functional boards and ended with one intact. These are a some photos from mid January to the beginning of February.
Trevor showing off some finds from the Eastern Sierra.
Stoked on Ryan Lovelace’s rolling house.
Parking lot surfing.
The wood stove in Ryan Lovelace’s Cosmic Collider.
Shred sleds at low tide.
Taking a breather.
Cyrus Sutton’s quiver nestled in the back of his camper.
A tried and true set up for camping and getting out there. A 4×4 pick with a canopy is best bang for your buck in terms of capability and reliability. I’m partial to Japanese trucks because of their size and proven record.
Surfboard watch dog.
Calling it a day.
Switching out fins.
Home is certainly where you park it! Ryan’s rolling home will be in the book. You can pre-order it here. It ships in a month and a half or so.
Old timers, the same that speak fondly of the days before leashes, will talk about this three week stretch of waves for years to come, most likely even decades. While the waves were happening, it is hard to acknowledge how good they are. This was different.
Here are some links,
Woody and The Blue Ox (Vimeo).
February 11, 2014
My Toyota Camper
A year ago, I started fantasizing about campers other than my VW Syncro. It felt adulterous. I had been living in it for a year and half at this point and the cost of maintenance was catching up to me. Syncro’s are pretty amazing vans. Mine had an Audi engine, front and rear locking differentials and could go any where I wanted it. The problem was reliability. Only 300o were ever imported to the US, and very few people know how to work on them. Many times a minor break down such as a fuel pump or a starter turned into a week long search for a mechanic that was willing to work on it let a lone had access to the right parts. My van was made in 1987 and had 292 miles on it when I bought it. With the right maintenance, It will keep working forever, but my regiment of 40k miles per year were wearing on the car. From afar, VW van’s are very romantic. Living in one is a totally different story.
Unfortunately, there aren’t that many good alternatives to a Syncro in terms of capability, size and efficiently. Sportsmobile’s weigh twice as much and cost between $50-100k. Depending on the, year there are problems with the Diesel engines and the MPG are hard to swallow. Eurovans are plagued with electronic issues and never come in 4wd. A full size truck and camper is way to big. I wanted something, I could parallel park in a city and make my way around narrow forest service roads. Eventually, I settled on a Toyota Tacoma and a poptop camper.
Go to a remote area for an activity like surfing, snowboarding or climbing and you’ll likely see a Toyota truck with a pop top camper. Unlike a rare German 4×4, the parts are ubiquitous and any garage in the world can work on them. Sure they aren’t as “c00l” as a VW, but one break down in the Mojave desert cured me with my fixation of how cool my Syncro was.
After doing a bunch of research on forums like Wander the West and The Expedition Portal, I focused my attention on a Four Wheel PopTop camper. All though not the fanciest, they have been making campers for 40 years and have a cult following of people that use theirs in harsh situations. To maximize usable space, I decided to remove the stock bed and put an aluminum flatbed on the truck. This would allow for the side entry I loved about my van, as well as a lower center of gravity and increased storage around the wheel wells. On a tip from a friend, I got in touch with AT Overland in Prescott, Arizona and they helped design, source parts and work with Four Wheel to build the camper. The whole process from conception of the idea to delivery of the finished product in Prescott took eight months.
The ruberized canvas walls have an insulative layer that helps with condensation and keeps the camper warm in cold temperatures.
The camper is based off of a 2013 Toyota Tacoma Access Cab. The truck has a V6, six speed manual and the off road package. I upgraded the truck with a 2-inch lift from Old Man Emu, an ARB Bumper, Warn Winch, Airflow Snorkel, Firestone airbags in the back and a custom rear leaf set up from Deaver in Orange County.
Parked in Baja on the campers maiden voyage last summer.
When popped, the bed slides out to roughly the size of a Kingsize.
Extra fuel storage and some badges of honor from the road. Between the fuel cans are two Max Trax for putting under the tires in sticky situations.
AT Overland fabricated 4 Lockable aluminum boxes under the flatbed for extra storage room.
A 20,000 BTU furnace keeps me the camper warm during cold nights. This opened up a ton of possibilities for me.
Compared, to my Syncro, the Four Wheel Camper feels like a Four Seasons. It has an electric fridge (powered by two marine batteries and 160w panel) a two burner stove (two 10 pound cylinders) a furnace (runs off the propane and 20 gallons of freshwater and an outdoor shower.
This month marks the two and half year mark for living out of my vehicle. It’s flown by. My initial plan to spend a year on the road has morphed into a way of life. I love living out of a small space. It forces me to limit my possessions and conscious of the mess I make. Instead of buying something when I’m bored, I travel to a new place. My new camper gives me piece of mind to continue my travels . I’m hoping to have it for twenty years.
Here are some more links,
Gone Tomorrow (Ian Durkin),
Four Wheel Campers.
January 30, 2014
Fall into Winter in the Pacific Northwest
For the first time since moving away from Portland in 2006, I spent the fall and early winter in the Pacific Northwest. Typically, I’d headed south when the days shortened and the rain came. Short, wet days aren’t conducive to living in your car. This autumn the rain held off, and I hung around, exploring the area that I grew up in.
One of my old stomping grounds.
A timber framed cabin my mom and her partner in crime built in the Columbia River Gorge.
Heating with wood during the cold snaps.
Chelsea at Point Disappointment.
Erosion a few hundred yards from the ocean in a dense forest on the Olympic Peninsula.
Dean stoking the fire on his outdoor wood stove.
Morning in my Four Wheel Camper in Central Oregon.
A cold streak in the Columbia River Gorge.
Everything you need, nothing you don’t.
36° and misting in Eastern Oregon.
My dad checking out an abounded house in eastern Oregon.
Looking east from the Cape Horn Trail on the Washington side of the Columbia River Gorge. For more photos, check out this album, Early January (Adobe Revel).
Sarah during a break in the storm.
It’s almost February now and ever so slowly, the days are getting longer. Tonight it’s supposed to get down toe the teens, I’m in the eastern Sierra. Living in your car and waking up with sunrise and falling asleep shortly after sunset makes you attentively aware of the seasons and weather. Maybe its the first snow, or the holidays, but this period of early winter is one of my favorites.
Here are some more links,
Ships of the Open Road (Pinterest),
Toyota Tacoma with a Four Wheel Camper Ute (Pinterest).