May 8, 2013
Not the First or Last
“Has anyone seen the shit shovel and TP?” I asked, hunting around our camp.
“Dan took it and the Lambo (Dan’s shitty mountain bike with Lamborghini badges) ten minutes ago and headed out for his morning routine.”
My small cup of freshly percolated coffee was kicking in, bringing the mid morning stroll into the desert for a scenic shit from casual to imminent.
“Fuck.” This is not the answer I was hoping to hear. I scoured our camp of three tents, Dan’s Vanagon, Johnny’s pickup and a dozen or so surfboards for an unmolested roll of toilet paper. Finding one by the camp fire, I left with purpose.
“Those fifteen tacos you ate yesterday coming back to haunt you?”
“Hardly dude,” I responding with wavering confidence , still believing the hubris that my stomach could support the onslaught of a dozen street tacos in Ensenada with no delayed after affects.
My brisk walk turned in to a slow jog and eventual settled at a dead sprint down the dirt road leading towards the desert and undefined outhouse zone behind the row of camps. Looking back, our camp and half a dozen other surfers slowly shrank behind me. “I can make it,” I groaned to myself. A hundred yards in front of me, Dan crested the small hill walking his bike and holding the TP and shovel in one hand. We moved with a different sense of urgency.
“Give me that fucking shovel,” I yelled, doing my best to mimic Usain Bolt at the Beijing Olympics.
“Oooooh, Taco Greed?” Dan bent over laughing. Holding the shovel out in his left hand, I grabbed the baton and kept on my path.
My situation was quickly deteriorating. Perhaps if, I walked slowly I could control myself? No time for that. The shovel would be used as a clean up operation not to dig a premeditated, shallow grave digging tool as I had hoped when I left camp a minute before.
Avoiding cactus and other foot fuckers that could compromise my chances of making it out of this unscathed and unsoiled, I left the trail and set out over the hard ground of the Baja Desert. Dan’s laughs faded as I crested the small hill. Glancing behind me, Dan’s head was still visible but the camp behind him was blocked.
I spun around, dropping the shovel and TP in one motion. Frantically, I fidgeted with my belt. Despite my sprinting and efforts, the dike broke as I unbuttoned my jeans. Inches from the finish line, I crashed.
Home is where you park it!
Restocking on produce at a local grocery store.
Erin attending to the morning dishes.
Everything you need, nothing you don’t.
Tide pool exploration.
Kitchen for six.
Right by the beach.
Let there be light.
Dan’s Subaru powered Vanagon.
Ryan heading out to shred a few.
Going through the roll of toilet paper like a ten year old through Fruit Stripe Gum, I cleaned up the mess as well as I could. Periodically, I paused to burn the mountain of paper collecting in front of me. As the sun ross behind me, the off shore wind picked up. The swell, that we chased down from Santa Barbara two days before, was showing up. Lines, groomed by the wind, were bending in around the point. A few of the old time Baja guys were already out on their fun boards catching the best ones, showing their hard earned knowledge of the finicky wave.
Removing my boxers, I put my jeans back on and started my bowlegged retreat back to camp.
My boxers flapped from my index finger like a flag of defeat. I considered berrying the boxers along with the mountain of rejected tacos in a shallow grave. Coyotees would get it in no time and leave them discarded along the beach and I opted to burn them. Thankfully, the off shore wind kept the shit smell at bay. I walked slowly, watching the waves break a hundred yards out from our camp.
“I’m not the first person or the last one to shit myself in Baja,” I reassured to myself. “It’s a cost of doing business.”
Here are some more links,
Fun and Dusted (Korduroy TV),
Old Clothes (Johnny McCann).
April 29, 2013
Living in a camper forces you to prioritize your possessions. You have to be selective. A camper has thirty square feet, mine has twenty five. Everything must have multiple uses. This ethos attracted me away from my cluttered New York City apartment in the first place and is the same interest that inspired The Burning House Project. After continuous tinkering here’s a list of things that are essential for my life on the road.
iPhone 5. Want to find a place to eat? Whats the weather doing? How long does it take to get to Bishop from here? It’s my connection to the world and spontaneity. Mine is jailbroken and with the help of a handy $20 tethering app, I can connect my laptop to the phone’s 3g modem. Screw telephone companies and their price gouging ways. (MyWi tether app)
LL Bean 20° Goose Down bag. Few things are more essential to a nice camping experience than a good sleeping bag. 20° covers pretty much all of the temperatures I’ve come across in the last 60,000 miles. After over 500 nights in the last two years, my bag is still going strong. (LL Bean)
Poler Camera Bag. I use this thing as a murse to hold headphones, iPhone Chargers and of course, my camera gear. Remove your chatskis, and it doubles as a cooler for a six pack of your favorite beverage. (Poler)
Gerber Multitool. A solid pocketknife is a must. It comes in handy in all sorts of situations. I’ve worked on my van, cleaned fish and taken out a cactus spike in Mexico with it. Plus it works when you need to open up a snack. (Gerber Gear)
Casio F-91W watch. Back in the 90′s, a training camp in Afghanistan taught Al-Qaeda members to use this watch as a timer for bombs. Rumor has it that because of this, the CIA has thrown Arabs into Gitmo and other godforsaken places simply because they wear the watch. It also happens to be the most widely distributed watch in the world and costs $9 on Amazon. The box claims that it’s water resistant but I’ve surfed with it dozens of times. (amazon)
Dr. Bronner’s. I don’t always shower, but when I do, I use Dr Bonner’s peppermint soap. Me and every other NPR listener you’ve met raves about this stuff, but honestly its a must. You can wash dishes, clothes, your hands and even your teeth with this stuff. (amazon)
Short rubber boots by Tretorn. When the weather gets shitty, you don’t want to have shoes. These short boots have 90% of the upside of full-size rubber boots without the inconvenience. I’ve worn them in the forest in British Columbia and on the beach in Mexico. They have a faux-fur liner so your feet stay warm when it’s cold. Don’t take this fur as invitation to not wear socks though, or they will start smelling like a DARPA-funded science project. (Tretorn)
Down Jacket. I wear this jacket 70% of the time. It packs down into a travel pillow. I take it everywhere. Patagonia has a rock solid warranty so if it starts hemorrhaging feathers, you can take it back. (Patagonia.com)
Backpacking Stove. This thing packs into a box half the size of your fist and can cook a steak. Need I say more? It also has an auto lighting feature so you don’t need to fuck around with matches or a lighter, things I’m always losing. The tanks are easy to get your hands on and last a while. (amazon)
John Wesley Twin Fin Pin Tail. My friend Beamer turned me onto John and his Pin tail twin fins surfboards. I’ve surfed them up and down the coast and had a blast on them. If I had to take one board with me on a trip, I’d take this one. (John’s blog)
Wrist Rocket. If I ever get around to it, I’d love to write a piece called Zen and the Art of the slingshot. There are so many variables at play. Rock size, distance from target, aiming technique. It’s great for passing the time. (Amazon)
One of my favorite parts of living in a camper is how it has shown me that I can be happy with very few things. I’ve met a community of people on the road that take more pride in what they do than what they own. These people have inspired me to think differently about my relationship to things.
Here are some more links,
March 19, 2013
Cooped up in my apartment in New York, just over two years ago, I started obsessing over buying one of my own and living out of it. Since then, I’ve left New York and moved into a van. This transition has fueled my interest in and appreciation for such vehicles. Shortly after moving into my van, I started tagging vans and other campers with #vanlife tag on instagram and then put together the submission-based Tumblr to go a long with it. Recently, I worked with my friend Maddie Joyce on coming up with a new design for the site. I’m really happy with how it turned out. Here are some of my favorite shots I’ve taken doing the last two years and shared through the site.
A Nissan pick up in Central Baja, Mexico, Winter 2013.
A Westfalia parked along the PCH north of Ventura, Winter 2013.
My Syncro parked in the Los Padres National Forest, Summer 2012.
A Toyota parked on the beach in Southern Baja, Winter 2012.
A surplus Russian Transport parked on the Beach in Kamchatka Russia, Summer 2012.
The idea isn’t a fetishizing of the vehicles themselves, but a celebration of the idea of traveling by cheep in a vehicle. The site has received thousands of submissions since launching and its been great to see all the inspiring photos come in. Head over to van-life.net and share your photos of ships of the open road.
Here are some more links,
Vanlife (#tag on instagram),
Home Is Where Your Park It! (Facbook).
March 13, 2013
The Sun Also Rises
“Do you hear that?” I asked to no one in particular. “The rain stopped,” I chuckled in surprise and contempt.
Cyrus (Sutton) looked up from the pot of vegetables he was cooking on a stove in the small apartment in Hendaye, France and studied the window. The squall had subsided, and the trees were no longer shaking like middle school boys at their first dance. “Looks like it,” he said, returning to his afternoon snack.
Since arriving in Bilbao a week before, the wind and rain had never stopped. Growing up in the Pacific Northwest and experiencing a fair share of New England’s Nor’easters, the Basque weather caught me off guard. The storms came in from the North Atlantic, slowed a little bit courtesy of the small speed bump known as the British Isles and then slammed into the southern European coast. During our stay in the Basque country, the largest wave ever surfed,was surfed five hours down the coast in Portugal.
James and Ryan looked out the window and nodded in agreement. Despite arriving in Bilbao a week before, we were still jet lagged and worn out from surfing.
“What time is Sancho meeting us for dinner?”
“We have to meet him in San Sebastian at 7:30.”
Glancing at my watch, it was few minutes before four. I was restless and jet lagged. My clothes were damp and sandy from the constant transition from standing on a rainy beach to wearing a wetsuit to standing back on rainy beach. Rising from the couch, I walked over to the window. The sun peered through a break in the clouds. I reached for my bag and jacket. ”I’m going to go grab a coffee and take a look around. I’ll be back in a bit.”
“I may see you at the cafe, I need to check on the good old internet. You know, make sure its still there..”
Walking down the stairs of the comfortable but sparse apartment building, I exited onto the an empty street. The roar of waves crashing against the breakwater at high tide a block away echoed around the Orwellian apartment buildings. Large puddles surrounded the storm grates and scraps from the various palm trees dotted the sidewalks. During the summer months, Hendaye is full of vacationers from inland. It’s not as fancy as Biarritz or San Sebastian and in the off-season it showed. Save for the a few surfers scrambling to get their wetsuits on, the streets looked post Zombie apocalypse.
Heading towards the beach, I searched the pockets of my jacket for my headphones. Finding them, I plugged them into my phone and resumed Hemingway’s fabled, “The Sun Also Rises.” It was nice to be alone and walking in a city, albeit a small, empty one. Back when I lived in New York, I opted out of taking a cab or subway to work and walked instead. That hour per day was my alone time, it kept me sane. I slipped into a similar mindset as I wandered Hendaye’s empty streets.
Luc’s Mini Cooper and his hand shaped eleven foot single fin.
Sancho making lunch.
“Should I stay or should I go now?”
Showers at the Mundaka Harbor.
Ryan Burch having a beer and watching waves at Mundaka after the best day of surfing of the trip.
The planner in Peta’s shaping bay.
The French and Spanish boarder.
A basement stairway in a five hundred year old castle in Spain.
It’s alive! That little black speck on the wave is Ryan Burch.
A 70′s style single fin gun, a two plus one gun, and Cyrus Sutton‘s experimental one plus one gun.
Mildew in the making.
Sancho looking out over a thousand foot cliff.
Red, white and grey.
Cyrus Sutton and my surfboards for the trip.
Cy and his broken 7’6 gun.
The street lights flickered into action, punctuating twilight. My immersion in Hemingway’s bullfights had lasted two hours. I needed to get back to the apartment for dinner. The wind was turning from a straight west to a south. Low pressure in the Atlantic was sucking warm air from Spain’s interior.
“We could score Mundaka in the next few days,” I mumbled to the empty street. ”With any luck, we might get some sun…” I continued my one sided conversation.
Here are some more links,
The Fun Also Rises (Tumblr #),
Regressing Forward (Cyrus Sutton’s blog).